Yom Kippur with the Maestro

The sun is beginning to dip towards the horizon on Yom Kippur Eve. As we finish our dinner at an outdoor cafe in Verona’s Piazza Erbe, a heavyset gentleman with thinning brown hair that curls just below his ears walks through the tables and approaches one of the waitstaff. “Maestro!”, exclaims the waiter with a flourish, bowing low before greeting him warmly and guiding him to...